Showing posts with label Pastures and Forages. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pastures and Forages. Show all posts

Friday, August 2, 2013

Armyworms

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Submitted by:  Eve H. Honeycutt Extension Livestock Agent
Lenoir and Greene Counties

Another pest to be on the lookout for is the Armyworm.  They are most active during late summer and early fall.  They can devour a field of forage overnight (or during the day). 

Keep your eyes out for:
  • Fall armyworms laying on the ground surface on the hayfield -- they like to "rest" here.
  • Stripping of leaves and eventually stems
  • Increase in birds in the field may be an indication of armyworms

Here is a picture of a fall armyworm:
Worms can range a little in color (young versus adults)--some may look more brown.

They especially like bermudagrass but they are not picky when the pickings are slim -- they will eat fescue, soybeans, and small grains too, as well as other plants. They may be repeat offenders -- you may see them now and again before the end of the season. There are a number of labeled products but here is a list for your convenience on bermudagrass/rye/pasture/hay (some are restricted use). Read and follow labels carefully and follow precautions and restrictions:
  • Diflubenzuron (Dimilin 2L)
  • Methomyl (Lannate)
  • Chlorantraniliprole (Rynaxypyr R) (Prevathon)
  • Spinosad (Tracer, Entrust)
  • Zeta-permethrin (Mustang Max)
  • Carbaryl (Sevin)

Control them when you see them and tell your neighbor.  Chances are they are eyeing his fields for the next meal.

Bermudagrass Leaf Spot

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Submitted by:  Eve H. Honeycutt Extension Livestock Agent
Lenoir and Greene Counties


Bermudagrass leaf spot is caused by a fungus from the genus Helminthosporium and the disease has been informally called Helminthosporium leaf spot, Helminthosporium leaf blotch, or Leaf Blight.
Leaf spot is a fungal disease that is brought on by constant wet conditions, especially when the forage is tall and cannot dry thoroughly between rain storms.  We saw a lot of leaf spot last year because of the same weather pattern in late summer.  On the grass itself, leaf spots are more numerous near the collar of the leaf blade. Leaf lesions are irregularly shaped and brownish green to black in color. Infected plants may occur in irregular patches. Extensive damage occurs when the pathogen attacks crowns, stolons and rhizomes. Severely affected hayfields may become brown and thin.
The good news is that leaf spot will not hurt your animals, though it does make the grass less tasty.  The bad news is there is very little you can do about it.  There are no fungicides approved for forage crops.  The best thing you can do is manage your stand of bermudagrass as best as you can.  Leaf spot will reduce yields and will continue to spread as long as the conditions remain moist.  One of the best preventative measures is to make sure your soil has adequate potassium levels (as shown on your soil sample analysis).  Potassium allows the soil and the plant to be healthy enough to fight fungal diseases like leaf spot.  Potassium is supplied in the form of potash, and the soil typically needs 75% as much potash as nitrogen EACH season to maintain adequate fertility and disease resistance. 
Keep an eye on your fields through this rainy weather and watch for irregular discoloration or thin yields.  If you do get leaf spot in a field, the frost this winter should kill it and it should come back next year.  Be sure to monitor your soil sample and follow the recommendations for all the nutrients, not just nitrogen. 

Block and Tub Supplements for Grazing Beef Cattle

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Submitted By Eve H. Honeycutt, Extension Livestock Agent, Lenoir and Greene Counties
Adapted from the Texas Agri-Life Extension Publication E-178

Block supplements are a convenient mechanism for delivering supplemental nutrients
to grazing beef cattle. As the labels on most blocks or tubs state, they are meant to
be used as supplements, not feeds. Success or failure of a block/tub supplementation
program will depend on the availability of forage. If forage is limited or of poor quality,
self-fed blocks or tubs cannot make up the nutrient deficit and are not formulated to do so.
Blocks and tubs have become increasingly
popular because:

• They are easy to store and handle.
• They are easily accessible.
• They require little labor.
• Minimal equipment is required.
• Consumption is self-limiting.

Blocks are particularly appealing to owners of the smallest herds of cattle (fewer than 50 cows) and owners of large operations of more than 300 cows. Many small producers have off-ranch employment and like the convenience and comfort of knowing supplement is continuously available. Large operators use blocks because they save time and labor. 

As with other supplements, blocks and tubs can vary widely in their cost, ingredient
composition, nutrient content, storage requirements and consumption characteristics.
Blocks and tubs generally can be divided into three categories based on the manufacturing method used.
Pressed blocks- these blocks are usually the least expensive.  The can soften in moist and humid environments, leading cattle to eat more than necessary.  Mature cattle generally consume 1-4 pounds per day, depending on the hardness of the block.
Chemically hardened blocks- these usually have a high mineral content, which can cause objectionable flavors.  They can also deteriorate during prolonged inclement weather, especially if they are packaged in cardboard.  Mature cattle normally consume 1-3 pounds daily.
Low moisture (cooked) tubs- These are the most expensive of the three types however due to their uniform consumption, the cattle tend to eat less, ranging from 0.5-1.5 pounds per animal per day.  These tubs will absorb moisture from the air, so the container must be rigid and kept upright.

Block and tub supplements are an effective way to supplement nutritional needs in cattle, but they are not a forage substitute.  Forage must be available in adequate quantity and quality for any supplement to produce the desired results.  Supplements should be made available as soon as protein or energy deficiency is suspected and before noticeable loss of body condition.  Blocks and tubs should be moved around within a grazing area and placed near water or loafing areas to encourage consumption.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Picking Up After the Storm On Pasture-Based Livestock Farm

Matt Poore,
Extension Beef Specialist, NCSU Department of Animal Science

Pasture-based beef, dairy, sheep and goat farmers need to be diligent in checking livestock, repairing damaged infrastructure, and looking for possible hazards in pastures caused by storm damage. Whether the storm was a severe thunderstorm, a hurricane, or a tornado, storm damage can cause acute injury and further damage to livestock if tending to animals and pastures is made a low priority in the recovery process. At a time when there often is damage to personal property including dwellings, outbuildings, and other non-livestock facilities, sometimes the livestock and the pastures take a lower priority. The health and well-being of livestock should be the second priority after the health and well being of farmers and their families.

Immediately after the storm subsides, producers should assess damage both to their infrastructure and their livestock. After they are sure friends and family are out of peril, they should check their pasture infrastructure to make sure that cattle or other livestock are in the pastures they were in before the storm, and that none of the animals are injured. If animals were injured by flying debris, the farmer should contact a veterinarian immediately if the injuries were severe. If conditions are so bad that livestock need to be evacuated, producers should contact their local extension agent, veterinarian, or emergency management officials.

Next, they should check to make sure waterers are operational and that fences are up and intact. If livestock are watered in a pressurized system and power is out, the producer should make haste to use a generator to restore power to the well system, or to provide another source of water (whether that be creating an emergency opening in the fence into a pond or stream, or by hauling water to the animals).
If hauling water, make sure the amount delivered to the animals is adequate. Adult lactating beef cows of average size need to be provided at least 25 gallons per day of fresh water, while dairy cattle would require more. Mature sheep and goats will need 1-3 gallons per day (depending on their size). Cattle in particular may be dangerous when very thirsty. If cattle have been deprived of water for 24 hours or more, producers should take great care when filling water tanks or restoring water flow to small tanks. Cows are likely to fight aggressively to get to the water source, and the cattle or even the farmer may be injured in the struggle.

If electric fencing is in use, producers need to check the power level to make sure the system is operational, and if the power is out, they should restore emergency power to the fence energizer. The perimeter fence should be checked to make sure fallen trees or branches have not downed the fence. If fence damage has occurred, farmers should make every effort to get trees or branches off the fence and
should make temporary repairs to keep livestock from wandering out of the pasture. More permanent repairs can be made later in the recovery process. If the system is electric, putting up temporary polywire and temporary posts may be the quickest way to restore the perimeter.

After assessing damage to the livestock and infrastructure, producers should assess other potential hazards caused by storm damage. Debris blown into pastures such as insulation and other building materials (common following tornadoes) may be eaten by livestock, leading to digestive upset and possibly death.

As producers check pasture infrastructure and scout for debris, they should also look for downed wild cherry tree limbs (or fallen wild cherry trees) and immediately either fence them away from livestock or remove them from pastures before livestock consume them. PRUSSIC ACID POISONING FROM CONSUMING WILTED CHERRY LEAVES FOLLOWING STORM DAMAGE IS A VERY COMMON CAUSE OF DEATH IN CATTLE, SHEEP and GOATS. This is an especially great hazard if pastures are short and livestock are hungry, because they may rapidly consume a large amount of the toxic material.

Another potential poisoning that may result from late summer or fall storm damage is acorn poisoning. If there are oak trees in pastures and storms knock many of the green acorns down at one time, livestock may consume enough to be poisoned. As producers scout pastures for damage, they also should be aware of the potential for acorn poisoning. They should note which pastures have the highest levels of acorns, then take steps to keep animals away from them. As with cherry tree poisoning, the greatest risk is when livestock are hungry and pastures are grazed short.

Finally, farmers should make sure livestock have adequate forage or feed, and should check mineral feeders to ensure animals have access to dry mineral (and are consuming the targeted amount). When farmers are hit by storm damage, there is much to think about and sometimes farmers neglect to follow normal management practices once they see that livestock are not injured and that infrastructure is intact. It is very important for animals to continue to have access to adequate forage and mineral supplement. If there is extensive damage to infrastructure, it may be most convenient to confine livestock to one pasture and feed hay until repairs can be made.

After Hurricane Floyd hit the east coast in 1999, livestock specialists and veterinarians received numerous reports of livestock with various health problems for several months after the storm. Investigations of these situations by local livestock agents did not reveal specific issues caused directly by the storm, but rather that some livestock were undernourished because farmers had so many other problems to deal with. In a great many cases, the livestock had no access to a mineral supplement and were suffering from deficiencies. Many mineral feeders had been blown all the way out of pastures, the mineral present was soaked and hardened so that livestock were not consuming it, or minerals had simply not been put out. Trace minerals (including zinc, copper and selenium) are deficient in many areas of the country and are important for the animal to be able to deal with stress and immune challenge.

Storms are an inevitable part of life, and managing damage means more than just cutting trees off fences and making sure livestock are not injured. Immediately following the storm the safety and health of you and your family comes first, but remember to continue to protect the safety and health of the animals you care for as part of your livelihood.

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Don’t Wait Too Late For Your Winter Pasture


 by: Emily Herring- Pender County Livestock Agent
            As of right now, the last thing on everyone’s mind is winter pastures with the warm days and the warm nights that seem to follow.  But now is the perfect time to prepare your pastures for the winter.  The importance of a winter pasture is going to be even more important this winter due to the drought we have experienced this summer.  Local hay is going to be short and the need to sustain your own animals will be greater. 
         For this article, the focus will be on winter annual ryegrass with the best dates being September 1- September 30, and the possible dates being September 1- October 31.  But first things first, be sure to take representative soil sample of the field you want to seed/overseed with ryegrass and get that sent off to the lab for results as soon as possible. OR if you have taken a soil sample within the last three years those results can be utilized for gaining information about the pH.  The recommended pH level for winter ryegrass is 6.5 which is the same as Bermuda and Fescue.  The pH is the most important part of the equation when establishing pastures of any kind.  Once this is completed and the results come back, apply the nutrients as the soil test indicates.  Keep in mind if you are using an old soil test report and you have already applied lime at the recommended rates then lime may not be necessary and the other nutrients may not be the same for ryegrass as for other grasses. 
         Next, decide on the ryegrass seed that you want to plant.  While at the store deciding on the different seed, be sure to look at the label on the seed bag for germination rate, percent of the desired seed, inert matter, and weed seed.  Compare the different varieties of seeds based on those seed labels to make a logical decision on the right choice based on high germination rate, high desired seed, and low inert matter and weed seed.
         Getting the field (seedbed) ready to plant should be the next step.  If there is a substantial amount of yield left on the perennial summer pasture be sure to graze it down to keep other grass competition down when seeding with ryegrass.  If
grazing is not an option, mowing the perennial summer pasture down is another way.  By doing either one of these methods it’s called overseeding and it’s a good option to keep a warm season stand of grass while utilizing the land for winter grazing.  If overseeding is your preferred method, then seeding by a grain drill will be the most beneficial way of establishment.  When deciding on having a pasture that is solely ryegrass (no other grass being present, like Bermuda) then total elimination of weeds will be necessary by applying roundup (glyphosate) at the recommended rates on the label for the weeds being controlled.  Getting the seedbed prepared will be necessary by lightly disking and lightly packing the soil back.  After this is completed, then broadcasting seed can take place with a light drag to cover the seed.  When dragging over the seed keep in mind the seedbed needs to be clean and free of debris because it can cause more soil to cover the seed therefore making the chances of germination lower.  
 After deciding on the ryegrass and getting the field prepared, plant at the recommended seeding rates of 30-40 pounds per acre when broadcasting it and at 20-30 pounds per acre when drilling.  The planting depth should be at only ¼ inch to ½ inch deep.  Good seed-soil contact needs to be met when planting ryegrass but special care needs to be taken to make sure the seed is not too deep.  The most common problem seen when trying to establish pastures is planting depth and planting hen the soil is too dry.  Adequate moisture needs to be in the soil when planting any type of seed. 
When the ryegrass is getting established, keep livestock/horses off of it until it reaches 6-10inches in height and then grazing can be allowed until ryegrass is 3-4 inches in height.  When this level is met animals should be moved off the pasture to another area and fertilization with nitrogen is required for optimum re-growth.  If overgrazed more than 3-4 inches, then grazing on the pasture will be a one time occurrence and money will be wasted. The total amount of nitrogen in the entire growing season is 80-100 pounds per acre so split applications of nitrogen after each grazing segment should not amount to more than 100 pounds at the end of the life cycle of the plant (until April). 
Don’t wait too long to get your winter annual pastures established, remember the possible recommended dates for planting annual ryegrass is September 1st until October 31st.  Waiting too late into the fall can affect yields greatly and reduce the chances of a stand. 

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Supplementing Cattle on Drought-affected Pastures



Submitted by Eve H. Honeycutt, Livestock Agent, Lenoir and Greene Counties
 Adapted from an article by Greg Lardy, Extension Beef Specialist, Department of Animal and Range Sciences, North Dakota State University

As I write this, it is too early to tell if the recent rain will do enough to improve the effects of the recent dry, hot weather on our forage crops.  With any luck, there will be more rain in the near future to increase soil moisture and forage yield.  But just in case, I thought some good information about drought affected pastures would benefit those of you with grazing animals.  Cattle producers generally have two main options for meeting the nutrient requirements of cattle on drought affected pastures and ranges. The first is to provide supplemental feed to ensure the cow herd has adequate energy, protein, vitamins, and minerals. The second is to reduce the nutrient requirements of the cow to a point where they can be met with available forage.

Drought-affected pastures generally do not produce adequate forage to maintain "normal" stocking rates, so producers must provide supplemental energy to meet the needs of the cow herd. Pastures that are dormant due to drought conditions may be low in vitamin A, phosphorus, and protein.  Meeting the need for these nutrients is important if cow herd productivity is to be maintained.  Reductions in stocking rate will benefit plants by reducing stress and will also provide more forage for the remaining cattle. When stocking rates are reduced in accordance with production, only small effects on weaning weight may be noted.

Providing Supplemental Feeds During a Drought
Minerals. Provide the same salt and mineral mixture during drought as you would during normal conditions. However, during drought phosphorus supplementation is critical.  A mixture of 50 percent trace mineralized salt and 50 percent dicalcium phosphate supplied free choice to the cow herd will meet the phosphorus requirement. The salt mixture should be placed close to stock watering locations.

Vitamin A. Lack of vitamin A may be a problem during fall and winter for cows that grazed drought-affected pastures during summer. Vitamin A is lacking in forages during drought and hay produced from drought-affected forages. Cows should receive vitamin A and D booster shots approximately 30 days prior to calving and their calves should receive vitamin A and D at birth.

Protein. Pastures dormant due to drought conditions may be deficient in protein. If these conditions occur during the breeding season, reductions in pregnancy rate can occur. Provide dry cows with approximately 0.5 to 0.75 pounds of supplemental crude protein and lactating cows with 0.9 to 1.2 pounds of supplemental crude protein per day. This can be fed as approximately 1 to 1.5 pounds of soybean meal for dry cows and 2 to 2.5 pounds of soybean meal for lactating cows. Protein supplementation may be necessary for optimum breeding rates during drought conditions. Alfalfa hay, sunflower meal, safflower meal, as well as other protein meals may also be used as protein supplements.
Energy. Since forage production is generally limited during a drought, energy may be the most limiting nutrient for grazing cattle. Several options are available for supplying energy to cattle on drought-stressed pasture. Hay, grain, and crop processing byproducts can all be used to supply energy to grazing cattle.

Grain processing coproducts, such as wheat midds, soyhulls, barley malt sprouts, beet pulp, and corn gluten feed, which contain highly digestible fiber provide energy while alleviating much of the negative impact that grain supplementation has on fiber digestibility. In addition, these byproducts provide protein which may also be limiting in drought-stressed forages.

Drylot Feeding. If pasture conditions are extremely poor, producers may consider feeding cows in drylot. This may be more cost effective than supplementation if large amounts of supplement must be transported and fed to cows daily. In addition, it may allow pastures a much needed rest period to begin recovering from the drought.

Spring Planting Considerations


submitted by
Margaret Bell, Extension Livestock Agent, Craven and Jones Counties

Over the years, most livestock owners have acknowledged crabgrass as a weed. Now, however, we are realizing the great nutritional value it has to certain animals, especially horses. As for the new herbicide product labeled just this past year, Metsulfuron Methyl & Nicosulfuron (Pastora), brings about quite the mountain of questions as well. In this article, we will discuss a few of the common misconceptions about both and discuss good planting options for the spring season.
     Crabgrass has a lot of advantages. Here are some facts you need to know if you want to plant crabgrass. It is very cheap and grows well in areas that drain appropriately. For crabgrass to get its optimum growth, air temperature needs to be between 85 and 95 degrees because it is a warm season grass. It will not grow very much when the temperature is below 60 degrees. Also, warm season grasses are more tolerant to moisture stress than cool season grasses. For the coastal plain, crabgrass needs to be planted from April to May 15. Make sure you plant only about ¼ of an inch deep as crabgrass is very sensitive to how deep or shallow it is planted. You will need about 3 – 4 pounds of seed per acre.

            As for Pastora, you need to do your research since it is such a new product. It is labeled for chemical weed control in hay crops and pastures in coastal bermudagrass (as found on the label): suppresses large crabgrass and goose grass, controls barnyard grass, broadleaf signal grass, foxtail species, Johnson grass up to 18 inches, panicum species, Italian ryegrass, sandbur, volunteer cereals, Pensacola Bahia grass, wild garlic, and many broadleaf weeds such as bitter sneezeweed, buttercup, geranium, chickweed, curly dock, dandelion, dog fennel, henbit, horseweed, jimsonweed, lambs quarters, morning-glory, pigweed, plantain, smartweed, and wild mustard. Consult with your local livestock agent for formulation amounts and how to properly apply these chemicals. Don’t forget to use a surfactant if the product calls for it. There are not any hay or grazing restrictions for Pastora use and it provides post emergent grass weed control. It also provides pre and post emergent broadleaf weed control. You should only apply it to established bermudagrass pastures and you could potentially injure your crop if you treat new growth more than two inches or after seven days following harvest. 

            Other spring planting considerations include taking a soil sample and sending it to North Carolina Department of Agriculture’s lab to be analyzed. Although right now is the busy time of the year for the lab, you can always take a sample and have the information to work with next year. They will send you an analysis and give you recommendations based on your soil type and what you want to plant. It is important to follow the recommendations of a soil analysis to ensure you are properly preparing your pastures for planting. If you would like to learn how to take a soil sample, like to pick up free soil sample kits, or would like to discuss the advantages / disadvantages of crabgrass and herbicides, or how to prepare your pasture for spring planting, please contact your local Extension agent. 
*Chemical Disclaimer
Recommendations for the use of chemicals are included in this publication as a convenience to the reader.  The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or services in this publication does not imply endorsement by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned.  Individuals who use chemicals are responsible for ensuring that the intended use complies with current regulations and conforms to the product label.  Be sure to obtain current information about usage and examine a current product label before applying any chemical.  For assistance, contact an agent of the North Carolina Cooperative Extension in your county.




Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Spring Pastures May Bring Grass Tetany

Submitted by Eileen A. Coite, Livestock Agent for Wayne County

Now that we’ve had some off and on warm days and a good dose of rain, I suspect our winter annuals will take off with spring growth.  With that in mind, it’s always a good time to remember and be cautious of grass tetany, because this is the time we may see symptoms.  Grass tetany is a disorder affecting ruminant animals, specifically cattle, sheep, and goats.  It is also commonly known as magnesium tetany or grass staggers, and most often occurs in nursing females (cows, ewes, or does) during early lactation, especially during late winter and early spring on tall fescue or small grain pastures.  As the name "magnesium tetany" implies, the disorder is a result of low levels of the magnesium mineral in rapidly growing forages, as well as an interference with the absorption of magnesium due to various factors.  Grass tetany is known to be one of the most substantial nutritional problems in grazing livestock, with estimated annual losses of up to $150 million in the US.  

The causes of grass tetany:
Late winter and early spring is time for calving (lambing, or kidding) in many herds.  Because of this, the lactating female requires additional magnesium to offset losses of the mineral through her milk production and urine. Even though the disorder is most often seen in lactating females, stocker cattle may also be affected, especially when grazing small grains. Magnesium requirements are generally greater for lactating animals, and greater for older than for younger animals.   In addition, the pastures many of these animals depend on this time of the year are low in magnesium due to many factors.  Wet soils that are low in oxygen may prevent plants from taking up sufficient levels of magnesium (Mg) regardless of levels in the soil.  Soils that are low in phosphorous, but high in potassium and nitrogen are also a problem, because this tends to counteract the uptake of magnesium.  Generally, forages containing less than .2% magnesium are more likely to cause problems. 

Grass staggers is another name for grass tetany, and for a good reason. Females that show signs of the disorder generally will have a reduced appetite, dull appearance, and stagger when moving.  Other signs include nervousness, frequent urination and defecation, muscle tremors, and excitability, followed by collapse, paddling of the legs and feet, coma, and death. The first sign will often be a dead cow that appeared healthy the last time she was checked. 

Grass tetany can be prevented by feeding ruminants supplemental hay or grain, by fertilizing pastures with dolomitic limestone, which contains magnesium, or by providing a mineral mix or supplement which contains magnesium oxide.  The supplement during these risk periods is the most practical method of prevention.  Supplementing one ounce per day greatly reduces the incidence of the disease.   This can be provided in a home-mixed mineral with 30% magnesium oxide, a commercial "high mag" mineral of 10-14% Mg, or mixed at 6% of a grain mix, fed at one pound/head/day (increase to 2 pounds/head if following an outbreak) If a high mag mineral is used, it should be the only source of salt available in the pasture.  In addition, it's important to monitor the herd and make sure that everyone is getting one ounce/day of the mineral.  Pastures containing legume forages will normally be less affected, because legumes tend to be high in Mg.  Unfortunately, legume growth is often limited in winter months, so this usually won't fix the problem.

To be safe, as mentioned above, it's a good idea to provide additional sources of Mg to your herds in the late winter/early spring when grass tetany can be a problem.  The only way to know for sure if forages are low in Mg is to have them analyzed, which can be done at the NCDA forage testing lab in Raleigh.  Grass tetany isn't hard to prevent, but sure can be devastating to a herd once affected.  

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

New Product for Weed Control in Bermudagrass


A New Product for Weed Control in Bermudagrass!
Eve H. Honeycutt
Livestock Agent, Lenoir & Greene Counties
There is great news this spring for bermudagrass pastures. Prowl H20 (pendimethalin) is now labeled for established bermudagrass pastures and hay fields for pre-emergent control of annual grasses.
This product has been in the works for many years. This application will provide excellent control of crabgrass and goosegrass and fair to good control of sandbur. If applied correctly, this treatment will provide season-long control of crabgrass and goosegrass, even with heavy populations. As you know, there are no registered or effective post-emergent

options for both of these grasses. But this treatment will prevent the need for
any post-emergent treatment for crabgrass and goosegrass.
There are two main points that need to be stressed to obtain season-long control. They are:
1. Prowl H20 needs to be applied at 3 lbs. active ingredient/acre and activated by water (rainfall or irrigation).
2. Prowl H20 needs to be applied by early March at the latest.
Crabgrass germinates when soil temperatures average about 55 degrees. This typically occurs by mid-March in sandy soil, particularly east off Raleigh. Also, the label states that it needs to be applied to dormant Bermuda.
A few other key points from the label:
· Apply only to established Bermuda (planted in the fall or spring and gone through first mowing/cutting) when in winter dormancy;
· Rate range: 1.1 to 4.2 qt /A per season;
· Dense grass infestations; Apply at least 3 lb ai/A(3.2 qt/A)
· Split application timings: ½ rate at onset of dormancy followed by ½ rate prior to spring greenup.
RESTRICTIONS:
Do not apply in standing water
Do not exceed 4.2 qt/A/year
60 day hay restriction
45 day forage harvest or grazing restriction
*Always read and follow label directions.
Disclaimer: The use of brand names and any mention or listing of commercial products or services in this publication does not imply endorsement by North Carolina State University nor discrimination against similar products or services not mentioned.

Stockpiling Cool Season Grasses


Stockpiling for the Winter
Guest Post:
Submitted By: Margaret A. Bell, Assistant Livestock Agent in Craven & Jones Counties
Adapted from an article by Dr. Matt Poore, NCSU Ruminant Specialist
For beef cattle producers, the winter can be the hardest time of the year. Producers have to get the tractor out everyday and have to purchase a lot of hay to get their cows through the winter successfully. Here is an alternative to that vicious cycle. Have you ever thought about stockpiling your fescue so you don’t have to feed hay constantly through the winter? The average savings was $0.89 per cow per day as opposed to feeding hay.
Tall fescue is a hearty grass and responds well to fertilization in the late summer. If a pasture of fescue is allowed to accumulate from late summer and fall until winter, cows can be fed efficiently without the mud associated with a long winter hay-feeding season. This is also a much more economical alternative to feeding hay all winter. If you want to “stockpile” fescue, you would apply 50 to 75 pounds of nitrogen per acre to a healthy fescue field in late August to early September. For our area, the ideal time is September 1 to 15. It is important to graze or clip the fescue to about 3 or 4 inches and let it rest several weeks before the fertilizer is applied. The nitrogen source that you apply is also very important. Ammonium nitrate gives the best response and liquid nitrogen gives the least response. Also, make sure that other soil nutrients such as potassium and phosphorus are at least at medium levels and pH is about 6.0 to get the best response.
Another important aspect of preparing to stockpile fescue is the timing of the rainfall. You want to make sure to get your fertilizer out before the rain. Use the rain to your advantage. By November you will know how much forage you will have for the winter to graze. During a normal year, you can expect to have about 2,500 to 4,000 pounds of grazable forage dry matter per acre. This amount of forage is equivalent to about five to eight 4’ x 4’ round bales of hay per acre.
When you are planning how you’re are going to stockpile your fescue, it is important to think about your herd and their needs. A 1,200-pound gestating cow can be maintained on about 20 pounds of stockpiled fescue dry matter per day. With about 15% waste, one acre would feed 100 to 160 cows per one day. Lactating cows will need 30 pounds per day with a 25% waste allowance, meaning one acre would give you 65 to 100 “cow days.” In other words, one acre of stockpiled fescue will give a dry cow enough to eat for well over 100 days and a lactating cow for 65 to 100 days. You can often manage your lactating cows with just adding a mineral supplement during the winter when you are implementing nutritional stockpiled fescue practices.
According to the research, the best technique to graze your cows is called “strip-grazing,” or “frontal-grazing.” This is when you allot your cows a strip of grass using a roll of polywire and temporary posts every one to three days. When they graze the target height of 2 inches, they are moved to a new strip. Start the cows near the water giving them fresh strips and slowly move them away from the water. There are many advantages to this including cows become tamer because you are in close contact with them every day. Also, manure is more evenly distributed than with a typical hay feeding system, so your soil fertility will increase. Thirdly, your cows are cleaner because there is less mud, meaning your calves will most likely be healthier.
You can also stockpile other grasses, including bermudagrass and rye/ryegrass.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Managing Cover Crops for Grazing

So you've planted your winter cover crop...now what? If you planted at the proper time- mid September- you should be seeing some great growth the past few weeks. (If you got a little behind and still have planted yet, there is still time. As long as there is about 3-4 weeks of warm days, cool nights, and adequate moisture, your cover crop has time to germinate and get some growth to avoid a winter kill.)

The Benefits: By choosing to plant a cover crop for grazing, you have done yourself a favor in more ways than one. All of the cover crops (rye, and oats being the most common) are great erosion fighters. They have extensive, soil holding root systems, and establish quickly even in poor, rocky, or wet soils. The dense yet shallow root systems act as soil builders, improving water infiltration. The rapid aboveground growth helps supply organic matter. There is usually little weed pressure until spring, but if you planted properly, the stand density will shade out most of your weeds and prevent seeds from germinating. You have also provided a cheap and efficient source of winter feeding, which is way more convenient and economical than feeding hay.

What to Expect: No matter what cover crop you chose most of them will behave about the same throughout the cool season. These crops love warm days and cool nights, with just the right amount of rain. If you plant early enough, you might be able to graze it before the first frost. However, during the coldest weeks between January and February 15, there will be little growth. Grazing should be reduced during this time to allow the stand to survive. By mid-March, the weather should be optimal for great growth and any animal grazing should be quite satisfied.

Maintenance: Avoid overgrazing or mowing cover crops closer than 3 to 4 inches. For average phosphorus and potassium conditions (based on soil test), apply 500-600 pounds of 10-10-10 at planting. On sandy soils make additional applications of 60-80 pounds of nitrogen per acre when plants are 2-3 inches tall in November, and topdress with 50 pounds of nitrogen on or near February 15.

The Disadvantage: The biggest downfall with using a cover crop in established bermudagrass pastures, hayfields, or sprayfields, is timing. Around the middle of March to the middle of April, your cover crop is growing like crazy. The animals grazing on it will probably be standing knee-high in the most beautiful green grass. However, your bermudagrass, lying dormant beneath all this action, is waiting for it's chance to shine. In early April, bermudagrass needs constant sunshine in order to green up and get ready for the warm summer season, when many farmers depend on it the most. If your cover crop is still on top of it, you are going to deny it the energy it needs to thrive. This is where you have to make a crucial decision. Ideally, you would need to kill the cover crop (or at least mow it very close to the ground), in order to provide the bermuda the sunlight it needs to grow. It seems against the laws of mother nature to destroy the beautiful spring growth of a cover crop, so you have to decide which is more important. A stand of bermudagrass with a cover crop that lasts later into the spring will greatly reduce the first cutting of summer hay.

Cover crops are beneficial to all aspects of the farm- including the soil and the grazing animals. So bundle up, sit back, and dream about spring!